Q -

I have received some recent test reports (based on ISO 13936 1 2004) which says 200newton on warp and 200newton on weft. But when I physically pull the fabrics at seam the yarns give way and windows are formed. I have noticed this phenomenon only on the pajamas as they are cut on straight grain. Underbust seams are stable and so are bias cut dresses. I would like to know about the minimum requirement of a woven satin and chiffon fabric in 100GSM  to pass the seam slippage test. And what is the tolerance level?

A -

Hi, Difficult one to answer with out seeing the fabric and garment seams. I would say that EN ISO 13636-1 uses a basic 301(lockstitch type) seam with a 12 mm seam byte and is constructed with the seam running parallel to the warp and weft directions which will give you a worse case result. If the seam is running at a slight angle to the weave you will get a considerably higher results. Satin fabrics are known to be critical for seam slippage due to the weave construction likewise chiffon fabrics. Are you looking at production seams on the garment as opposed to laboratory produced seams? If you are, you will see a difference as it is probably not a 301 type seam and the byte may be considerable less than 12 mm, and the stitch density will be less. Typically a European Retailer would be looking for a minimum result of 80 N for a 6 mm seaming opening with a seam strength of 120 N based on the standard laboratory seam. The finishing process and seam construction are critical when cutting and designing these type of fabrics for the lingerie market. I would suggest you test the final garment seams using EN ISO 13936-2.

The ability to perform cyclic testing on a static testing machine depends on the machine\'s maximum speed, the compliance of the specimen and the type of test. Most static machines are capable of low frequency tension or compression cyclic tests at a moderate rate of several Hz when testing stiff specimens. I understand you manufacturer high performance elastic fabrics, a good software platform such as Tinius Olsen’s QMat for textiles comes as standard with a number of pre written cyclic tests conforming to specific Retailer and International testing standards, no additional hardware or software is required. For example BS EN 14704-1 Determination of the elasticity of fabrics specifies a cyclic speed of 500 mm/min for knits and only 100 mm/min for woven. When testing stretch fabrics I would not recommend that you use speeds in access of 500 mm/min for this area of testing. The speed should be determined by the end use of the product and/or what is specified in a specific method speed can affect the final results extracted by software, so always be led by the method you need to test by.

I can not give you an answer myself but I would recommend that you contact the Society of Dyers and Colorists in Bradford. I am told they have a definitive method for this.

I believe there are DIN methods of test for Saliva and Urea, sorry I don\'t know the numbers. These colour fastness tests are performed of children\'s clothing. Contact Intertek Testing Group, I know they can perform these tests if you are unable to do them yourself.

It is common for lab managers to create a test procedure that requires the operator to zero or some call it “Balance” or “Tare off” a load cell before the start of a new batch of tests, others insist on zeroing the load cell before every specimen. I believe that either procedure is acceptable, as long as one rule is followed: never zero the load cell with a specimen in the grips. Tinius Olsen load cells are very sensitive and can detect a change in load as a result of gripping the specimen. If the load is zeroed after a specimen is gripped, you risk zeroing off part of the ultimate tensile load. This initial load will be subtracted from (or added to) reported results and can falsely increase or decrease actual values (depending on whether or not there was a compressive or tensile load on the specimen before the load cell was zeroed). If you notice this change on the load channel display after gripping, operators have the option of using automated software features, such as preload (see the software help files for more information) or can manually adjust the position of the crosshead.

There could be several ways to do this to start with look at your dyeing and finishing process\'s. Improve the knitting quality or change the yarn quality.

If you require information with regard to Care Labeling you need to contact the Home Laundering Consultative Council who should be able to supply you with all the current label guidelines and give you references to specific International Standards you may require.

I do have a several manuals from Key American and European Retailers, however because of confidentiality I am not in a position to pass them onto a third party. In order to obtain such manuals you must make direct contact with their relevant Technologists. The figures I gave you were just a general guideline each company will vary slightly depending on their quality requirements for the style and end use of each garment.

In many of the software routines used for the testing stretch fabrics we leave the extension range open for the technician to input when they are setting up the test in the settings field. It is important though that you do set a realistic number for the fabric under test, not just enter the maximum allowable. If you get into this bad practice the software may have difficulties when it comes to re-scale on the completion of the first specimen. Our M-series machine users with Qmat Pro must take particular care of this testing by direction with the maximum extension first.

Q -

I have CM-5 motorized crockmeter in my lab. in the final stroke, its finger stops 2-3 cm away from the starting position. How much it would effect the test results. Similarly, if the finger of crockmeter travel 2~3 cm more after completion of the final stroke, how it would effect the results? Advise in details.

A -

Sounds to me that your grub screw on the pivot arm has worked loose you need to tighten it up and recheck your travel distance. If it is still 2-3 cm  short of the correct distance then contact your local SDL-ATLAS Agent who will advise you further. Obviously if it is outside the acceptable tolerance stated in your method it could make a considerable difference to your results depending of the rub fastness of the fabric under test.

Yes this is possible washing may have removed finish applied during the fabric production process or they may have applied a fabric softener during the washing process that will act as a lubricant. Did you have your fabric tested for slippage before releasing to the customer. You do not say if this is a finished garment sold by a retailer or if you are the fabric processor. Seam construction will play a big part when testing the final garment seams. Testing production fabrics you would normally test against EN ISO 13436-1 looking for a minimum of at least 80 N for a 6 mm seam opening with a 12 mm seam bite. Some retailers when looking at denim type fabric with where the warp and weft threads are different in count and colour may even look at a 3 mm seam opening in some cases depending on the final garment design.

When cutting the specimens from you sample fabric you need to line up the longest dimension with the warp or weft threads depending which direction specimens you are preparing then fray down the short end of the specimens, fold the specimen across the short end parallel to the threads in direction of the seam to be sewn (see section 9 of EN ISO 13936-1:2004). It is important that your seam is made parallel to the fabric weave. Note - you will get varying results when the seam is not parallel.

Please note I am not a chemist but most test laboratories would use EN 71 Part3 to look for the presence soluble Arsenic, for total content they would use a Mass Spectrophotometer technique. If you need specific information relating Arsenic in Cotton you would be better contacting  Cotton Incorporated in the USA http://www.cottoninc.com

When it comes to Toy Testing for the European market you need to look at compliance with the latest version of EN 71. This standard is made up of several parts covering all aspects of toy testing. Here at Tinius Olsen we make tensile and compression testing machines which are used by the leading Test Houses when evaluating the strength of toys and other products that may have play value. We make specialist grips that can be fitted onto our machines for measuring the pull off force and the separation force of magnets, or for any other small components that are deemed grippable by the requirements of this standard. Magnetic catches are used in so many ways for closing or joining items, we must make sure whilst being ‘fit for purpose’ they were designed for, they are also safe when small children are around. Small children will pick them up? If they become detached from the item the first thing they do is a mouth test. If you want any further advice please contact the Team at Tinius Olsen direct and we will be more than happy to advise what machine and grips you need for your products.

The colourfastness test to Saliva is based on DIN V 53160-1 which is a test for toys. Mothercare and other Retailers also us it for a contact staining test for textile fabric and trims going into Babywear. I am not sure of the exact chemicals and quantities required from memory. I do know that Intertek Testing Services perform this test for their clients and may be able to help you. May I suggest that you contact the Hong Knog operation for further information.

I am not sure what you mean by Comforters are you talking about bedding or babies soothers. Different countries use similar words to cover different items. We can supply a complete range of grips for the testing of soothers test standard you need to look at for this would be EN 1400 Parts 1 and 2. If you are referring to bedding again we can help you here depending on which tests you want to perform.

I would recommend you use our pneumatic horn grips with smooth metal surfaces. Other jaw face surfaces will cause premature breaking (see BS EN ISO 2062;1995). Remember you will need to adjust the operating air pressure for the type Tex/breaking force of the yarn you wish to test.

I know that you can use a LUX meter to measure the performance of the light being emitted by any light source. You would need to contact someone like Verivide in Leicester or Datacolor, may be even your supplier of the lihgt tubes and bulbs for more guidance.